deer & doe datura, burda classics 2013 #120, grainline maritime, and lisette 1879 souvenir shorts

daturamaritimelisetteburda01I had no idea what to title this post as there are four makes here all bundled together. I had to treat them evenly to avoid any jealous feelings. With two tops and two shorts, I’ve got four new outfits. First up is the Deer & Doe Datura blouse paired with the Grainline Maritime shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda02Then it turns into the Deer & Doe Datura with the Lisette 1879 Souvenir shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda03Then a modified Burdastyle Winter 2013 Classics Dress chopped into a top with the Lisette 1879 Souvenir shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda04Last but not least, the modified Burdastyle Winter 2013 Classics Dress chopped into a top paired with the Grainline Maritime shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda05Here they are, all four together! I made these back in January so the fit is off as I have lost a bit of weight. They still fit, but I’m not sure for how long.

daturamaritimelisetteburda15In January I went through a “must get rid of all my fabric from Africa” phase. These fabrics were purchased from Woodin in Ghana in the summer of 2012, and as much as I like collecting things, by January 2014 I was thoroughly tired of African cottons. I wanted to sew with my new silks, pontes, and jerseys, but felt I couldn’t start those without first using up all these cottons.

daturamaritimelisetteburda06So we’ll start with the Datura top.

daturamaritimelisetteburda07I made lots of bias tape – definitely one of my favorite things to do in sewing because I feel accomplished in how much fabric I save from the trash bin.

daturamaritimelisetteburda08I made a muslin (with another Ghanaian fabric) and I added darts to make it more fitted.

daturamaritimelisetteburda09Do chalk out our stitching lines, because I found them necessary for stitching the zig zags on the top. Sometimes guessing is good, but this is not one of those cases. Draw them so you can pivot correctly.

daturamaritimelisetteburda10The iffy part of the instructions was the yoke. It took me forever to figure them out, and when I did it was because of fiddling. I’m still not sure I did them correctly according to the instructions, but it turned out fine according to my intuition.

daturamaritimelisetteburda11Time to cut into my real fabric! Always exciting.

daturamaritimelisetteburda12Part of the reason why I picked this pattern was because I felt the triangle neckline would work well with the geometric diamonds in the stripe of this print.

daturamaritimelisetteburda13I love the neckline!

daturamaritimelisetteburda14The buttons on the back are functional, but I don’t use them since I can pull this over my head and arms without unbuttoning them. Bonus!

daturamaritimelisetteburda24Ta da! Now let’s talk shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda16Using more African cotton as my muslin, I made a mock up of the Grainline Maritime shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda17I don’t know why but my pocket and pocket lining weren’t fitting together correctly. I sewed them with a 1/2” SA but still have the top part over hanging. Not a big deal as it didn’t affect anything, but it was confusing since I couldn’t match it to the diagram in the instructions.

daturamaritimelisetteburda18I’m glad I muslined this (twice actually) so I could practice the front fly zipper. Completely new territory for me, and I’m glad I was able to make two practice pairs before attempting the real thing.

daturamaritimelisetteburda19I still had issues with the pocket and pocket lining.

daturamaritimelisetteburda20Any tips for making this look better? And also why I keep having so much extra from the pocket lining?

daturamaritimelisetteburda21Do admire my fly!

daturamaritimelisetteburda22As for the pocket lining, look what I managed to sneak in.

daturamaritimelisetteburda23And can’t forget about the topstitched back pockets.

daturamaritimelisetteburda54Here they are in action!

daturamaritimelisetteburda25Ok, don’t laugh… I don’t know what happened here. I think the shorts are sitting too low which is why there is that awful crease.

daturamaritimelisetteburda26And they are sitting too low because I’ve lost weight so they are falling down. This is why sewing a summer project in January is a bad idea.

daturamaritimelisetteburda27Anyway, let’s move on to the Lisette 1879 Souvenir shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda28I had to squeeze these out of 1 yard of fabric. Squeeze I did! I’ve actually made this shorts once before but I wanted to remake them with my improved sewing skills. This pattern is a bit impractical because there are no pockets. Not on the side, not on the back, not in the front, not anywhere! But that is easily remedied.

daturamaritimelisetteburda29Hello welt pocket scrap! I used the Oliver + S welt pocket tutorial to create a sample pocket to add to my shorts. However, this fabric was too thick and a bad choice.

daturamaritimelisetteburda30I then used scraps from my Colette Cooper bag to make a pocket sample.

daturamaritimelisetteburda31By the third time it was much improved.

daturamaritimelisetteburda32My only issue with the tutorial is that it doesn’t make a very pretty inside.

daturamaritimelisetteburda33But that is also easily remedied!

daturamaritimelisetteburda34I basically made the pocket longer and pressed it upward instead of downward and used the waistband to camouflage the top. There are some more photos on this PatternReview thread I started here. Lladybird’s Thurlow sewalong also had a nice explanation for welt pockets here. So in the end I combined both Oliver + S and Lladybird’s tutorials to create my perfect welt pocket.

daturamaritimelisetteburda35As for the zip, I wish there had been a cleaner finish for it. Of course from the outside you can’t see, but on the inside to finish it all you do is fold it over.

daturamaritimelisetteburda36Like such. I think I need to find a different lapped zipper technique that hides it in the waistband instead of simply folding it over at the top.

daturamaritimelisetteburda37Anyway, here it is!

daturamaritimelisetteburda38A bit too big? Oh well…

daturamaritimelisetteburda39Pleats in the front, but no pockets.

daturamaritimelisetteburda40Oh wait, here they are! Hiding in the back.

daturamaritimelisetteburda41Now let’s move on to the top.

burdaclassicsThe top is actually dress #120 from the Burdastyle Autumn/Winter 2013 Classics issue. I didn’t have very much of my print fabric left, but I was determined to squeeze a top out of it, and when I saw this dress I knew I could modify it to make a top.

daturamaritimelisetteburda42I cut the back and front to be the exact same lengths. Then I sewed the darts in the front and it became shorter than the back. Big oops. Lesson learned for next time.

daturamaritimelisetteburda43But no fear! I pulled out my fancy curved ruler and made a nice curved hem.

daturamaritimelisetteburda44Ta da!

daturamaritimelisetteburda45Using scraps I made some straps. Yes! I love it when I can use up very last square inch of a fabric.

daturamaritimelisetteburda46Here are the straps turned out but not yet pressed.

daturamaritimelisetteburda47I didn’t use the instructions, of course, since this is Burda we’re talking about. It was fairly simple. Sew darts, sew side seams, attach straps, attach bias binding, hem, done!

daturamaritimelisetteburda48I improvised the straps.

daturamaritimelisetteburda49Also I decided I do not like it when I join bias tapes together with a vertical seam. I find it is bulky and doesn’t look very nice. I used this tutorial which explains how to join them diagonally. Both techniques work but I prefer the second one, even if it is fussier.

daturamaritimelisetteburda50Done! A nice quick summer top.

daturamaritimelisetteburda51And here it is with the Grainline Maritime shorts.

daturamaritimelisetteburda52Two tops and shorts = four outfits for hot weather!

daturamaritimelisetteburda53In conclusion, this is a mix and match set using the Deer and Doe Datura blouse, a dress turned top from BurdaStyle Classics Autumn/Winter 2012 #120, a pair of blue shorts using the Grainline Maritime pattern, and a pair of pink shorts with welt pockets by Lisette 1879 Souvenir. Whew! And with that, I’ve destashed 9ish yards (including muslins) of fabric from Africa. The stash busting continues…

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>