shortening vionnet dress #1, roses, and narrow rolled hems

After reading all the comments on my first Vionnet muslin, I decided that I did indeed want a Vionnet dress to wear out publicly. However it would have to be modified for my lifestyle, which means shortening it. I decided to play around in photoshop and wondered what would happen if I removed part of the pattern, highlighted here in the green. For Piece B I then moved the bottom part to the top to close the gap.

shorteningroseshemming02I overlapped the pieces in photoshop… and, it looks like it would work! The zig zag hem is still there.

shorteningroseshemming03But how much to actually shorten? No fancy math for me, I decided to eyeball it. Here is pattern piece A in the original length.

shorteningroseshemming04I made a big crease.

shorteningroseshemming05Ta da! I think this is a length I’d be happy with. That’s as far as I got. I need to modify Piece B then make another muslin, and fingers crossed that it will turn out nice.

shorteningroseshemming06I’ve actually finished my muslin for Vionnet dress #2, but in the photograph there are a bunch of roses attached to the dress. So I am practicing making roses before photographing my muslin.

shorteningroseshemming07There are no instructions in the Bunka book, but I did find a a Vionnet Rose pattern online for sale from the Center for Pattern Design. I’m not sure if the pattern was made by disassembling original Vionnet roses, or if these are inspired by Vionnet, but either way the three techniques presented here are all new to me so it was worth it. As you can tell I have a lot of practice to do.

shorteningroseshemming08This isn’t just any pile of scraps.

shorteningroseshemming09They are narrow rolled hem practice scraps! I think a narrow rolled hem is the ideal finish for these Vionnet dresses, but I’m not very good at using this foot. I’ve decided to practice, practice, practice until I’m as comfortable with this foot as I am my regular machine foot.

shorteningroseshemming10So far I’ve practiced on lining cotton, quilting cotton, rayon bemberg, and organza. The organza is the worst because it doesn’t want to fold over twice. In any case I’ve learned that each fabric has it’s own “sweet spot” for the narrow hem foot, and each fabric has to be held at a specific angle unique to itself, which means each time I use this same foot with a different fabric I have to start the experimentation over in order to achieve a nice narrow hem. This is only step 1. Step 2 is learning how to use this foot on convex and concave corners.

shorteningroseshemming11In a completely random note, here is something cool. This is my cell phone, a huge beast called the Note 3. Yeah yeah yeah it’s huge but I actually very rarely use my phones for actual calls. My eyes use this phone way more than my ears do.

shorteningroseshemming12Here is how you think the phone fits into my Grainline Maritime shorts.

shorteningroseshemming13But no – the whole thing goes in! So yeah, if you’re looking for a pair of shorts with deep pockets, I recommend the Grainline Maritime. I also biked in these shorts with the phone in them, and it did not fall out. That’s it for now. I’m off to either make a muslin, practice making fabric roses, or practice narrow rolled hems.

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