I’m back with another Vionnet make! This one is similar to the first dress I made in terms of flowy-ness and fitting, except that the “flaps” hang vertically rather than diagonally. Still cut on the grain and worn on the bias, as usual.
Here is a photograph of what I assume to be an original Vionnet garment. See how the fabric in the back ripples downward perfectly? That is what is supposed to happen… (Image source here)
Instead my triangular flap pretty much stays a triangle and leans left. I think I don’t get that nice “ripple” in my flap because my fabric is stiffer and I seem to have my weight on my left leg. Also, the wind is probably blowing in that direction as well.
Another (original?) Vionnet garment (image source here). There is actually a tutorial for this dress and the author calls this the a jabot dress, which I think is the official term for the flaps. In the tutorial the author says to use square pieces of fabric. That works since the concept is the same, but my pieces were slightly different.
I’m working from the Japanese Vionnet book, and it used shapes similar to a square, but not exactly. Not a huge difference except my hem isn’t as “jagged” and my shoulder straps are wider as well. The only big difference is that in my version the shoulder straps are twisted.
Also! I discovered a solution to the projection-and-tracing technique I had been doing earlier. I found out I could scan, scale to an accurate printing size, then print it tiled in adobe acrobat. Then cut and tape per usual .pdf pattern assembly. This way the pattern pieces are more accurate and it’s easier since I don’t need a huge wall to project upon and trace.
Let’s restrain it for a bit. In this variation I’ve opened the front triangle flaps completely open and pushed the remaining three flaps toward the back. This gives a very clean and simple look to the front.
You’ve got a dress with a bunch of flaps, so depending how much you open them and in what direction you choose to open them toward, no two looks are ever the same. And then even when you do decide, they’ll certainly slip and slide to whatever position they want as you wear it since they are not “fixed” into the place. The sash is a guide, but certainly not a permanent flap holder. You can also choose to make the sash wider or longer. I’ll be honest, I didn’t use the pattern, I just grabbed a long rectangular scrap of fabric and serged all the sides for my sash.
Which in turn creates this halter look for the front.
An extremely quick make because there are only 4 side seam lines plus 2 shoulder seam lines for a total of 6. Hemming, however, is another story as you’ve got 4 giant squares to hem… Best to hem it before you stitch, which I admit I didn’t do because I was too excited to see how it would look and wear. I hemmed it afterward, which proved a little difficult especially since the straps twist and you have a switch from right to wrong side. My hemming was awful, but without close up photographs you can’t really tell.