backless burdastyle 3/2013 #111 + stash busting with atakino

burdabackless01The dress #111 from the March 2013 issue of BurdaStyle was my first make after the end of Frances’ visit. I suppose I was in a bit of a slump, and being with her made me crave wearing wildly inappropriate things like shorts and spaghetti straps. So I made this dress. But how exactly is it wildly inappropriate? Well let me turn around…

burdabackless02Hello! This is an indoor photo shoot only because look at that back and look at that leg! Ooooo! Hey, if I can’t actually be back home, I can at least live out my fantasies from inside my house, right?

pimentsellertakino01Ko ko ko! Someone’s outside. Who? But I’m busy with my photoshoot, I’ll step out in a few minutes and see who is visiting.

burdabacklessoriginalHere’s the original. I don’t know why Burda didn’t show the back as that is the star feature of this dress.

111_technical_largeThe line drawing.

burdabackless09I started off with four yards of this fabric, but don’t forget that I made the Colette Beignet skirt first. The backless dress was made from the leftover scraps, which is why the dress is much shorter than the original. However much fabric I had left was what determined the final length of the skirt.

burdabackless03This dress is backless… which also means braless… and now you can see how flat I am.

Back CameraHere is the original fit on me. You can tell it was not meant for me because look at all the gape at the bust. I added extra darts at the side to bring them in.

burdabackless04After I added the darts the gape went away but the flat plains were still there. I tried sticking out my chest like a penguin, but it didn’t help much. I don’t mind having a small chest, but I do mind when it looks completely flat, because I’m not! I have some curve and shape up there, but I’m not very good at fit to accentuate my bust correctly. Boo Sad smile I promise I have boobs, they’re just really easily camouflaged without a bra.

burdabackless05Also the back of the skirt rides up and is higher than the front.

burdabackless14I thought that it was because the straps were too short, so I made them longer, which didn’t fix the problem but made the rise less severe. I realized later that this dress is a petite size, and I just happen to have an extra long torso, so that probably had something to do with it.

burdabackless06Back to the flatness issue. Maybe there are sew in bra pads I can buy and add them in? I don’t want to wear a strapless + backless bra because that just sounds uncomfortable. Maybe it is dart manipulation I need to master. Or maybe I need to learn more about slopers. Or fit. So much more to learn in this wonderful hobby! Either way next time I make a backless dress I will be more prepared.

burdabackless07Regardless of those two issues, I still like this dress. It makes me want to eat ice cream. Real ice cream. Don’t be surprised if in a few months all my photo shoots involve ice cream… I’ve got major cravings.

burdabackless08Though to be honest in the states I would wear this with a nice wrap or shawl. I don’t like exposing that much skin for too long, it’s nice to have the option to cover up if I want to.

burdabackless10Some construction notes. When making this dress, the zipper was too long, so I cut it to shorten it. And then as I was installing the zipper, I zipped the pull off the “tracks” completely. Oops. I tried to put it back on but no go. I unpicked the zipper and threw it into the scrap pile. For attempt number two, I sewed some horizontal stitches at the part where I shortened it to create a “stop” to prevent the pull from flying off. Lesson learned.

burdabackless12I used three rows of stitches for all my folded over hems.

burdabackless13The bodice is lined with the same thin fabric as my Beignet skirt. Some sort of organza? The people here call it “poplin.”

burdabackless15I’m not very good at stitching in the ditch, but shhh, nobody can see the insides except you and me!

burdabackless11The end. The dress is on the line, and I’m back to wearing a normal outfit so I can step outside my house to see who was at the door.pimentsellertakino02Ah… I see. It was atakino. Remember the “-no” suffix means “seller of/mother of”. So this is the seller of ataki. What is ataki?

pimentsellertakino03Let’s ask Professor Bosco.

pimentsellertakino04Ataki is pepper. The spicy stuff found in every savory dish that I’ve tasted in Benin. If it isn’t spicy it isn’t edible – for the Beninese, at least. For me it means I always need a full liter of water with each meal. So atakino here sells basic sauce ingredients: onions, msg cube, dried peppers, ground peppers, and ground shrimp. More than likely people are running low on something, and how convenient, she’s right at their doorstop with everything they need for dinner.

pimentsellertakino05Bonus Beninese stash busting project! What to do what to do with that random one yard of fabric you’ve got laying around?

pimentsellertakino06Why, first fold it up into a long rectangle.

pimentsellertakino07Then roll it in a spiral, like a cinnamon bun. Mmmm these USA cravings are really kicking in hard.

pimentsellertakino08Then place the spiraled fabric on your head.

pimentsellertakino09Last step is put a giant tray full of cooking ingredients on top. The cloth has two clever functions. The first is that it acts as a cushion. The second is that it greatly increases the surface area on the top of your head to make it easier to balance stuff on top. Now you can walk hands free and you’ve used up an entire yard of fabric! Beninese stash busting really is the best, no sewing is ever needed and the results are always super practical.

Pattern: BurdaStyle 3/2013 Dress #111
Fabric: Woodin 62045

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